Friday, 24 May 2013

Gluten-Free Breads & Sourdough.


I think I see part of the clarification in your post: you recommend using one grain for the starter, and have that grain be dominant in the flour blend for the bread. I'll see if this is a viable option and if it gives me better results. I definitely intend to do some further research on which flours cultivate which microflora and see if I can tweak the flavor profile of my sourdoughs accordingly.

Don’t worry about the research part; I’ve done it.  About to do a post based on it.  I have all the necessary ingredients myself to test some of the guesses I’ll make, but I have little time, as other experiments wait.

Sans Glutton


I create my own flour blends, and have a few different blends for different purposes. It is widely accepted that you can achieve the best texture and flavor in gluten-free baking with a blend of flours, some starches and some whole grains. For my flour blend I purposely selected grains that ferment well. There is one gluten-free baker that I know of who likes to use just one or two grains. He lives in your neck of the woods in Tasmania.

I haven't ever made injera but I do want to try it at some point.
Again, thanks for the ideas!

I caution against using flour blends with sourdough starters for reasons of flavour, not rheology, which seems to be your (and most gluten-free bakers’) principal concern.

I personally see nothing wrong with these sorts of blends, especially when less dynamic leavening agents are in play.  I have seen, used and even experimented with a variety of blends, some with better results than others.  However, almost all of them wreak havoc on a sourdough culture due to substrate confusion.

The kind of starter necessary for gluten-free baking is similar to one I sketched out earlier; it’ll likely have a higher hydration, too, since obligately heterofermentative bacteria are not present.  The starter should be designed around the grain it’s using, and preferably a grain with some sort of social or cultural history of supporting sourdough ‘breads.’  This will produce the best flavour results, especially if the grain (or one similar) being used for maintaining the culture appears as the ‘main’ grain in the blend (let’s say at least 50%).

I’ve wanted to do a series on gluten-free baking, but, lo and behold, there’s never any time.  If you have not already researched the background, I’d recommend looking up any grains that are gluten-free and associating each with their various backslopping process as well as the LAB and yeasts they commonly recover.  Once that list is made, it’s quite easy to begin to ‘choose’ flavour profiles, as the rest of that research has also been done (and also cross-references into my own research into flavour in wheat breads, as all grains have the same rough sugar, protein and amino acid types but in different combination to each other).

Thursday, 23 May 2013

Sans Gluten.


I tried this method of creating a sourdough starter with gluten-free flours, and it worked splendidly. I actually made two starters, one with 100% dark teff, and the other with a blend of glutn-free whole grains and starches that I use for making bread. While both starters worked, the teff starter was better flavor-wise. Both grew yeast easily on the third day. I was able to get some of the most flavorful loaves of gluten-free sourdough bread I've ever made using this starter, and they rose well too. They had a very rounded-out lactic-acid flavor.

I am doing some more research and experiments concerning the best way to make sourdough loaves gluten-free. I may try some modifications to the method to see if there are any parts of the process that can be changed to suit gluten-free grains. This method of creating a starter was part of my research and it has been very informative to read your blog. Thank you for the ideas!

Starters used for gluten-free ‘bread’ products have different metabolic needs than those based in rye or wheat.  For one thing, the primary sugar sources change composition when working with gluten-free grains, with maltose having a diminished role.  The likelihood of highly-evolved, obligately heterofermentative LAB dominating the such a starter culture are much lower due to this substrate difference.

Simpler sugars, then, give rise to a microfloral culture that has more pronounced yeast activity, as well the presence of either obligately homofermentative LABs (like those in the Plantarum and Para-plantarum group) or those that are facultatively heterofermentative (like Brevis & company) as the main lactobacilli presence.  A mixture of gluten-free grains will result in a very unpredictable culture, which is not a bad thing if you’re looking for adventure and inconsistency.

Teff’s a reliable grain for sourdough fermentations.  It’s likely one of the first grasses ever used for continuous sourdough fermentations.  More information on Teff and sourdough can be found here, here, and here.

Below are two methods used for preparing injera, excerpted from two different studies, here and here.


2.5 Preparation of injera

Injera baking consists of two stages of natural fermentation, which last for about 24 to 72 hours, depending on ambient temperatures. The only required ingredients are the tef flour and water. Tef flour was mixed with twice its weight of water. Inoculation was accomplished by consistently using partially cleaned fermentation container and by adding some ersho (a clear, yellow liquid that accumulates on the surface of the batter towards the final stage of fermentation). About 10% of the fermenting dough was mixed with three parts of water and boiled for 2 to 5 minutes. This is called ‘absit’. Absit ensures that injera had the proper texture and consistency. The tef dough was baked in an electric heated oven to obtain Injera. Injera was dried under electric heated oven at 40 0C over night, ground to a fine powder (to pass through a 40 mesh sieve) and stored in polyethylene bags for further extractions.

2.6 Preparation of Partially Fermented injera

Partially fermented injera was baked at 18 hours of fermentation and has sweet taste and characterized by vigorous evolution of gas and maximum dough-rising. It is recommended for people suffering from gastritis and, thus, do not tolerate acidic foods.

2.7 Preparation of Fully Fermented injera

The fermentation process of fully fermented injera lasts for three days. The appearance of an acidic yellowish liquid on the surface of the dough at about 30 hours of fermentation was discarded. As soon as the liquid layer was poured off absit was mixed with the rest in fermentation vat after being cooled to 600C. This process signals the initiation of the second stage of fermentation. By mixing the boiled dough with the rest in the vat, the dough-rising and gas formation process was enhanced. The fermenting dough was thin enough to pour on to the hot flat pan, locally known as ‘mitad’ for stam-baked in to fully fermented injera. The preparation of injera is shown.

Tef flour + water + ersho
Incubate at room temperature
(Primary fermentation)
Ferment for 17-25 hours
Sweet injera
At about 30hrs, discard yellow liquids
On the top of the fermenting dough
Remove a small volume of dough for ‘absit’ making
Mix with water
Boil
After cooling absit to 60°C
Add to dough in fermentation vat
Incubate for 0.5 to 2 hours
(Secondary fermentation)
Steam bake on hot clay pan
(2-3 minutes)


-- 
The teff injera samples were prepared at home in the same way as done traditionally in every household. Accordingly, teff flour was mixed with clean water in the ratio 1:2 (w/w) and 16 % of starter (ersho) by the weight of the flour and was kneaded by hand in a bowl in the traditional way. The resultant dough was allowed to ferment for 3 days at ambient temperature. After this primary fermentation, the surface water formed on the top of the dough was discarded. For every 1kg of original flour, 200ml of the fermented mixture was mixed and with 400 ml of water and brought to boil (traditionally known as ‘absit’ making). It was cooled to about 450C before it was added into the main part of the dough. The main dough was thinned by adding water equal to the original weight of the flour and stirred for 15minutes. The batter was left covered for 2 hoursforsecondary fermentation. After 2 hours, the absit was added to the thinned dough and mixed very well (known as batter making). The batter was left for about 30 min to rise (the second fermentation), before baking commenced. Some more water was added to thin down and form the right batter consistency. Finally, about half a litre of batter was poured onto the hot clay griddle in a circular motion from the outside, working towards the centre. After 2-3 minutes of cooking using traditional baking equipment (metad), the injera was removed and stored in a traditional basket container messob. The injera was then transported from home to the laboratory for further study.

I have seen your recent breads on The Fresh Loaf.  My personal recommendation would be to shy away from specialty ‘flour’ blends, and move toward more pure expressions using one or two grains per loaf that have both a documented history of sourdough breads made from them as well as those that are gluten-free. (There is, however, a wealth of information on the natural fermentation of various gluten-free flour blends.  Just google away!)

Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Enzymatic Prefermentation of Yeasted Preferments.


I am researching and writing a longer piece on the use of commercial yeast, and I stumbled across something I thought I’d share.

The following is a passage from Kati Katina’s wonderful ‘Sourdough: a tool for the improved flavour, texture and shelf-life of wheat bread,’ available here.

‘Schieberle (1996) reported that during 16 hours of fermentation in the yeasted preferment, the amount of 3-methylbutanol and 2-phenylethanol increased during first 8 hours and then ceased during last 8 hours. The lack of amino acid precursors was proposed to explain the phenomenon.’

I do not know why this did not occur to me earlier, but the implication of above is that you could and maybe should be enzymatically prefermenting your yeasted preferments! Simply autolyse for 12 to 16 hours as before, then mix in yeast.  Proceeding at cooler temperatures (I’d imagine at 25°C or less) will result in the optimal flavour profile.

Check Ya Culture.


Want to know the best process used today for identifying the “who’s who” of your sourdough culture?

‘On the other hand, data from conventional culture-dependent method incombination with molecular identification procedures complemented PCRDGGE identification results and provided evidence of the viability of the microbial group detected.’

Read more here.  This paper does a good job showing (not telling) just exactly how the process works.