Let me explain in simpler terms.
There are two kinds of sourdough starters: those which are spontaneous, say, whenever a
substrate and water are mixed together; and then there are those that are
maintained.
The difference between the two is obvious. The first would be similar to those species
in situ (think: wolf, fox, dingo), while the other, via whatever process
parameters are used, actively selects and modifies the species present (over
time, you get specialisation, like Chihuahuas, Golden Retrievers, Huskies, and
so on).
When flour and water is mixed, there are an abundant
of organisms that actively contaminate it.
The shift from a spontaneous microflora (that which is sort of just
naturally present at first, from whatever source) to a "maintained"
and "selected" microfloral culture generally involves three steps
(for any basic fermentative process, too):
1. Presence of
atypical fermentative microorganisms.
2. Growth and
eventual dominance of microorganisms more frequently associated / typical with whatever fermentation is occurring, with a decrease in the atypical species.
3. Growth and
eventual dominance of typical but more highly-evolved species to whatever fermentative
process is being used.
In sourdoughs that are continuously maintained, the
species from #3 become the dominant microflora while those from either #1 or #2
become the sub-dominant.
The pineapple-juice method presupposes that those
organisms from the first step (Leuconostoc, etc.) are undesirable. They are not.
They are generally recovered from sourdoughs in cooler climates as the
sub-dominant microflora(Belgium, France, the Netherlands, etc.).
Here's a list of the LAB species that have
permanently colonise the human intestinal tract: Lbs acidophilus, brevis, casei, crispatus,
delbrueckii, fermentum, fructivorans, gasseri, paracasei, plantarum, rhamnosus,
ruminis, sakei, salivarius, and vaginalis.
All of these are from the #2 category, and all have
been recovered as dominant and/or sub-dominant organisms in wheat- and/or
rye-based sourdoughs.
Only one species represents #3 for wheat- and/or
rye-based sourdough fermentations: LB
SF.
There are other truly undesirable species that occur
in #1 (true entero-pathogens, etc.), but they will be outcompeted every time by
all the above mentioned species in a continuously maintained sourdough.
So, here's what the pineapple juice method says: Let's skip #1 and go straight to #2 so as to
rid ourselves of undesirable organisms.
Problem is, some of those in #1 are, in fact, desirable, depending upon
the process-parameters (maintenance conditions) chosen, and those from #1 that
ARE truly dangerous will lose out in time, every time to those desirable
organisms from #s 1 -3 in a continually fed system.
Those LABs from #2 create more flavour, better
fermentative conditions, etc.; hence, why we select them.
Those from #2 are more acid-tolerant than the one
species from #3. Wink et al. assume that
adding pineapple juice will acidify the substrate and automatically bring about
the presence of those from #2 while eliminating all those from #1. NOT TRUE.
Many of the bad entero-pathogens will disappear, but many species she
identified as "bad" can and do survive such acidified conditions.
The best way to establish those microflora from #2,
instantly, is temperature. Two of those
organisms, fermentum and plantarum, are also recovered from raw wheat and rye
grains, so no cross-contamination from humans is necessary. All one needs is the raw flour that contains
these organisms (basically EVERY rye and/or wheat flour ever tested in the
world), water (necessary for life activity) and the right temperature. Outside of substrate, temperature is the most
important processing condition to select for or against any of these species.
Adding a mixture of whole rye and/or wheat flour with
an unusually high amount of water (most of these LAB are non-motile) PLUS the
right temperature will instantly activate and guarantee the presence of
plantarum and/or fermentum, which are two of the most desirable
"secondary" microflora. They
can out-compete ANYTHING above 37 / 35 degrees Celsius, respectively, including
LB SF.
My method involves a Ziploc bag, water and grain; a
large plastic container (like a cooler) that has a lid; then filling the
container with 37-degree water (say from the bath-tub); and then dropping the
baggie into the water for 12 - 24 hours, adding extra hot water to maintain a
constant 37 degrees. The ensures #2 is
established. Upon second refreshment, I
switch to an inoculation percentage and temperature (32) more favourable to LB
SF. I arrive at a stable culture using
this method in 3 - 5 inoculations (under optimised conditions), which is sort
of the magic number for completely changing and/or establishing ANY sourdough
culture.
The third refreshment also takes place in a bag, and
uses a temperature profile that establishes a considerable yeast presence (28
degrees).
The method was developed for home-bakers without
access to immersion circulators (I own many).
It's what David Chang calls "ghetto-vide."
Do you follow my logic?
The problem with Wink's "research" is that
it misunderstands the way in which most of these desirable sourdough organisms
out-compete undesirable (pathogenic) organisms.
She assumes it's via pH conditions, but we know this simply isn't true
(LB SF dominates at conditions much, much more alkaline than any other
LAB). Acidification is only ONE variable
for establishing a culture, but not THE, especially for an LB-SF-based culture.
E-mail me for more details.
Once I have a good internet connection, I'll do a
step-by-step process with the exact amounts necessary to complete this.
What do you mean by inoculaton?
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